Charger from transformer TS 160. How to make a charger for a car battery from a transformer. What should be done
Winter is inexorably approaching and the season for purchasing (assembling) car chargers will soon begin. We would like to present a charger that we made independently for our own needs for charging two batteries of 40 and 60 A/h. It has already worked in several copies for different people, and is especially necessary in winter.
In cheap chargers available in stores, it happens that the charging voltage in the final phase reaches 20 V (this is quite possible without a stabilizer when the mains voltage increases to 250 V), and the electrolyte turns into gas. They are not suitable for security reasons, so it’s better not to even think about buying such devices!
With minimal knowledge and steady hands, you can spend the least amount of money, using what you have at hand, and assemble a pretty decent 12 V car charger.
Car charger diagram
Potentiometer PR1 allows you to adjust the operating voltage of the comparator U1 in the range of at least 13.5 ... 15 V. If the battery voltage is lower than the operating voltage of the comparator, then after each reset of the trigger U2A after an additional short moment, a high state is output to the Q-output. Capacitor C1 charges, and the voltage at the transistor's gate becomes at least 10 V higher than the voltage at its source - the transistor opens. An important characteristic of the circuit is that the described charging cycle C1 is not repeated in each half of the network operation, only every full period, that is, every 20 ms. This ensures that the system will always pass through an even number of sine half-waves, which is beneficial for the transformer since the absorbed current does not contain a DC component.
This charger is based on the well-known 4013 chip. The only change in the circuit is the use of CEP50N06 instead of the BUZ11 transistor, it has an even lower junction resistance (19 mOhm instead of 30 mOhm). This is indeed a very good and many times tested circuit, although it has two drawbacks, namely: the lack of regulation of the charging current and the inability to work with a battery voltage below 10 V. It is difficult to say what the lower voltage limit is for the correct operation of the circuit, but by connecting a discharged battery on which the voltage without load was 8 V - the system did not start, it was necessary to briefly connect the battery to the power supply directly (raise the voltage a little), after which the charger did the job.
The case is from a classic computer power supply, in which everything could be placed. In the middle, a transformer from a damaged UPS was screwed in, from which only one 17 V winding was used. The circuit also works with a 25 A bridge rectifier, V / A module made in China. As for the V/A module, its advantage is its wide supply voltage range up to 30 V and the fact that it can be easily powered from the most measured voltage. The measurement accuracy can be calibrated using micro potentiometers. The module has a built-in shunt, the current measurement range is 10 A. The output is protected by a 15 A fuse.
The fan is installed on the back of the power supply case, its operating voltage is limited by a resistor of 220 Ohms, 5 W (to make less noise). The resistor was selected experimentally so that the cooler would not have problems starting, and its speed would be lower. After all, it should not make noise, but only ensure air circulation. Of course, you can abandon the fan altogether, but then it would be useful to have a large heatsink for the transistor.
Battery connection cable 2×1.5 mm, 3 m long, alligator clips, it is used to connect to the battery. The cable can be thicker, since at 8 A the voltage drop is about 0.75 V, at 5 A - about 0.5 V, and at 2 A - only 0.2 V. This is not too big a problem, because that at the last stage of charging the current is very small and the voltage also drops.
The costs for a homemade car charger were incomparably lower than for purchasing a ready-made one, even on a cheap Chinese website.
When charging, there is no need to disconnect the battery from the car electronics (the circuit controls the output voltage, which is set to 14.4 V), and there is no need to control the charging time, when the battery charge is completed, the charging current will drop to almost zero over time.
The maximum current that could be achieved with the presented design is 12 A (the V / A module withstood) with a discharged battery of up to 8 V, which was mentioned earlier. During normal operation of batteries, the current in the initial phase is 6 A, and then gradually decreases. Its value depends on the degree of battery discharge.
A digital voltmeter is connected to the battery. The ammeter is connected directly to the diode bridge. During charging, the voltmeter fluctuated in the range of about 0.1 V and this is normal operation. After charging the battery to 14.4 V, the voltmeter stopped fluctuating and constantly displayed this value. During charging, the ammeter changed its readings from maximum to zero. Zero showed strictly and did not fluctuate like on a voltmeter 14.4 V.
Instructions for working with a car memory
Charger works like this:
- You connect a slightly discharged battery, suppose that after connection the voltage is 12.3 V. Since the resistance of such a battery is low and the voltage is lower than the set 14.4 V, the transistor opens and flows D.C.. How high this current is depends on the power of the transformer and the resistance of the battery. Let's assume it will be 6 A.
- The battery is charged, the voltage across it increases, and the current decreases slightly.
- The voltage reaches set value 14.4 V, the circuit goes into pulsing mode to limit further voltage increases.
- The voltage will no longer increase, but the battery will be recharging all the time, the current will gradually decrease, the ammeter will fluctuate in readings.
- The battery continues to charge, the peak current becomes lower, and when fully charged it fluctuates within very low values. The battery should be considered charged when the current is about 0-0.3 A.
The circuit switches to pulse recharge mode when the voltage reaches 14.4 V, and by this time the current flowing through the battery becomes stable, the ammeter also shows this. In pulse mode, the ammeter will show near zero, which means that the battery is fully charged.
This is not the first homemade charger assembled according to the proposed scheme; the previous ones looked like the photo above. All of them have been working for people for a long time. Description of the charger in the original and drawing of the printed circuit board.
Power transformers, TS-160, TSA-160-1, TS-160-1, TS-160-2, TS-160-3, TS-160-4, TSSh-160, TSSh-170, TSSh-170-3 .
This series of transformers was produced both on split rod cores made of steel tape, grade E-320, and on armored cores made from stamped W-shaped plates USH30x60. All of them were developed and intended mainly to power black-and-white television receivers and household radio equipment.Please note that the skein data given here may vary.on your existing transformers,due to changes in specifications, manufacturers, the passage of time and other conditions and they should be taken only as a basis. If you need to determine more accurately the number of turns of the windings of your existing transformer, wind an additional winding with a known number of turns, measure the voltage on it and use the data obtained to calculate your transformer.
Transformers on armored cores, TSSh-160, TSSh-170, TSSh-170-3.
Power transformer TSSh-160 is interchangeable with transformers TSSh-170 and TSSh-170-3.Power transformers TSSh-160 and TSSh-170 differ from the transformer TSSh-170-3 only in that the latter has a network winding of only 220 volts, its network winding terminals are numbered 1 - 2 and further numbering of the secondary windings continues from number 3, that is, if instead of a transformer TSSh-160 or TSSh-170 you install TSSh-170-3, then wires are soldered to petals 3-4 of TSSh-170-3 that are suitable for petals 7-8 of transformers TSSh-160 and TSSh-170, and so on according to the diagram.
220 volt network to the primary winding of transformers TSSh-160 and TSSh-170, connected to terminals 1 and 6, in this case it is necessary to short-circuit terminals 2 and 5. For transformer TSSh-170-3, 220 volt network to the primary winding, connected to conclusions 1 and 2.
Picture 1.
Appearance and diagram of transformers TSSh-160, TSSh-170, TSSh-170-3.
Table 1.Winding data of transformers TSSh-160, TSSh-170, TSSh-170-3.
|
Transformer type |
Core |
NN pins |
Number of turns |
Wire brand and diameter, mm |
Voltage, nom. IN |
Current, nom. A |
|
TSSH-160 |
1-2 |
200 |
PEV-1 0.59 |
110 |
0,7 |
Transformers on rod cores TS-160, TSA-160-1, TS-160-1, TS-160-2, TS-160-3, TS-160-4.
Transformers of this series were intended both for powering tube television and radio equipment, and for radio equipment made on semiconductor devices.
To the primary winding of power transformers, such as TS-160, the mains voltage of 220 volts is connected to terminals 1 and 1", while terminals 2 and 2" are connected to each other.
For transformers TS-160-2 and TS-160-4, pins 2 and 2" are already structurally connected to each other, and the network is connected only to pins 1 and 1"
Power transformers, TS-160, TSA-160-1, TS-160-1.
Intended for use in power supplies for lamp, lamp-semiconductor television and radio equipment.
Transformers are basically the same and interchangeable with each other. They differ from each other only by a slight difference in the voltages of some secondary windings. The TSA transformer differs from the TS transformers only in that its windings are made of aluminum wire.
The primary winding of transformers can only consist of two sections of 110 volts, that is, only 220 volts. The terminals of the network winding in this case will be 1-3, terminal 2 will be absent.
The 220 volt network in this case is connected to terminals 1-1". Terminals 3-3" are connected to each other.
Figure 2.
Transformer diagram TS-160, TS-160-1.
Table 2.Winding data of transformers TS-160, TS-160-1.
|
Transformer type |
Core |
NN pins |
Number of turns |
Wire brand and diameter, mm |
Voltage, nom. IN |
Current, nom. A |
|
1-2 |
414 |
PEL 0.69 |
110 |
0,75 |
||
|
1-2 |
414 |
PEL 0.69 |
110 |
0,75 |
* - The numbers of the terminals on the TS-160 transformer correspond to the numbers of the terminals extruded on the transformer frames.
TS-160 transformers may have a side contact plate with its own numbering from 1 to 14. The numbering of the terminals on the contact plate will be as follows;
1-11-8 - Primary winding (220 volt network 1-8), 11 - midpoint of this primary winding (110+110);
2-6-3 - 33+33 volts (6 is the midpoint of this winding);
9-4-10 - 64.5+64.5 volts (4 is the midpoint of this winding);
5-12 - glow 6.3 V. 0.3A;
13-14 - glow 6.4 V 7.5A (two windings 9-10 and 9"-10" are connected in parallel)
Power transformer, TS-160-2.
Transformer TS-160-2 is designed to power semiconductor radio equipment.The appearance of the TS-160-2 transformer is shown in Figure 3, the transformer diagram is shown in Figure 4, and the winding data and electrical characteristics are in Table 3.
Figure 3.
Appearance of the transformer TS-160-2.
Figure 4.Diagram of transformer TS-160-2.
Table 3.Winding data of transformer TS-160-2.
|
Transformer type |
Core |
NN pins |
Number of turns |
Wire brand and diameter, mm |
Voltage, nom. IN |
Current, nom. A |
|
1-2 |
414 |
PEV-1 0.69 |
110 |
0,65 |
Power transformer, TS-160-3.
The power transformer, TS-160-3, is similar and interchangeable with the transformer TS-150-1. The primary winding of the transformer can have two versions: 127 and 220 volts, as in the diagram shown in Figure 6, and only 220 volts - the transformer does not have windings Ib and Ib" and terminals 3 and 3".
The appearance of the TS-160-3 transformer is shown in Figure 5, the transformer diagram is shown in Figure 6, and the winding data and electrical characteristics are in Table 4.
Figure 5.
Appearance of the transformer TS-160-3.
Figure 6.
Diagram of transformer TS-160-3.
Table 4.Winding data of transformers TS-160.
|
Transformer type |
Core |
NN pins |
Number of turns |
Wire brand and diameter, mm |
Voltage, nom. IN |
Current, nom. A |
|
1-2 |
362 |
PEV-1 0.56 |
110 |
0,65 |
Power transformer, TS-160-4.
The transformer is specialized, designed to power semiconductor equipment and equipment made on microcircuits. Used for computer power supplies.
The transformer core is split, type PL, made of steel tape E-320, section 20x40x50.
The mains voltage is 220 volts to the primary winding of the transformer, connected to terminals 1 and 1".
The appearance of the TS-160-4 transformer is shown in Figure 7, the transformer diagram is shown in Figure 8, and the winding data and electrical characteristics are in Table 5.
Figure 7.
Appearance of TS-160-4.
Figure 8.
Diagram of transformer TS-160-4.
Table 5.Winding data of transformer TS-160-4.
|
Transformer type |
Core |
NN pins |
Number of turns |
Wire brand and diameter, mm |
Voltage, nom. IN |
Current, nom. A |
|
1-2 |
414 |
PEV-1 0.56 |
110 |
0,7 |
Electrical circuit of a homemade charger
What is needed for the battery to charge? A source of stable current that would not exceed a certain safe value. In the simplest case, it will be a regular network transformer. It must produce on the secondary the current required for the standard charging mode (1/10 of the battery capacity). And if at the beginning of the charging cycle the load begins to draw a current of a higher value, the voltage will drop on the output winding of the transformer, which means the current will decrease. There are two options for rectifiers:
The latter circuit will allow you to change the value of the charging current by changing the voltage on the battery. If you do not trust the transformer, then the function of the current stabilizer can be assigned to a regular 12-volt car light bulb.
In general, I decided to make the charging quite powerful for myself, using the TS-160 transformer from a Soviet tube TV as a basis, rewound it to suit my needs, the output was 14 volts at 10 amperes, which allows you to charge batteries of a fairly large capacity, including any automobile ones.
Charger housing
The body was assembled from zinc sheet, as I wanted to make it as simple as possible. 
A hole for the fan was cut out at the back of the case, for greater reliability I decided to add active cooling, and there were a bunch of valves, so don’t let them lie idle.
Then he began to make the filling, screwed on the transformer, and also took the diode bridge with a reserve - KRVS-3510
, fortunately they don’t cost much:
I made a hole in the front panel for a voltmeter, and also screwed in a crocodile socket.
It turned out exactly what I wanted - simple and reliable. This unit is mainly used to charge the battery and power 12-volt LED strips.
Well, as a last resort, for setting up car converters. And to reduce interference, after the bridge I installed a pair of capacitors with a total capacity of about 5 thousand uF.
Externally, of course, it could have been done more carefully, but the main thing for me here is reliability, next in line is laboratory block food, that’s where I will embody all my design skills. All the best, I was with you Columnist!.)
Discuss the article DIY CAR CHARGER
The problem of a dead battery is known to many car enthusiasts. However, a reasonable question immediately arises: “How to charge it?” The answer is simple: “Purchase ordinary Charger" Fortunately, the cost of such devices is low, about 500-1000 rubles. But there is another option - to assemble it yourself car battery charger. Moreover, some motorists believe that homemade “charging” is a matter of pride. Every man can do it. In this article we will look at the assembly principle battery charger and, in fact, let's try to assemble it.
Previously, large old tube black and white TVs used a TS-180-2 transformer. It is from this that you can create battery charger. You can take any other one that has an output voltage of at least 12 V and a current of at least 2 A. But, in this case, we will do car charger using transformer TS-180-2.
Below I am attaching charger circuit, guided by which you and I will take further actions. Using this circuit, you can assemble “chargers” on any other transformer.
This vehicle has two secondary windings. They are designed (each) for a voltage of 6.4 V and a current of 4.7 A. When they are connected in series, the output voltage will be 12.8 V. This will be enough for us to charge the battery. A thick wire needs to be connected to pins 9 and 9′ on the transformer; You need to solder a diode bridge to pins 10 and 10′ using the same thick wires. This bridge consists of 4 diodes D242A or others, the current of which must be at least 10 A.
Install diodes on large radiators. Assemble the diode bridge on a fiberglass plate of suitable size (I described how to make a diode bridge in the article). The transformer primary windings must also be connected in series, and the jumper must be installed between 1 and 1′. Connect the cord with a plug for the network to pins 2 and 2 with a soldering iron. It is advisable to install a 0.5 A fuse in the primary network, and connect a 10 A fuse to the secondary network.
The cross-section used in the manufacture of the wire charger must be more than 2.5 mm 2. The figure for which the current of the secondary windings is calculated cannot be exceeded. For example, if your network is designed for a voltage exceeding 220 V, then the transformer output, accordingly, will be more than 12.8 V.
Limit the charging current in series with the battery by connecting a 12-volt lamp with a power of 21-60 watts into the negative wire gap.
An ammeter connected to the charger will help monitor voltage and current. The measurement limit of indicators is as follows: the voltmeter must be at least 15 V, and the ammeter must be at least 10 A.
Connect the battery carefully, avoiding even a short-term incorrect connection of plus and minus. It is impossible to short-circuit the wires to test for functionality, even for a short time (the so-called spark test).
When connecting and disconnecting the charger, it must be de-energized.
Operate the charger carefully and carefully and do not leave it running unattended.
All motorists have found themselves in such an unpleasant situation. There are two options: start the car with a charged battery from a neighbor’s car (if the neighbor doesn’t mind), in the jargon of car enthusiasts this sounds like “lighting a cigarette.” Well, the second way out is to charge the battery.
When I found myself in this situation for the first time, I realized that I urgently needed a charger. But I didn’t have an extra thousand rubles to buy a charger. I found it on the Internet simple diagram and decided to assemble the charger on my own.
I simplified the transformer circuit. Windings from the second column are indicated with a stroke.
F1 and F2 are fuses. F2 is needed to protect against short circuits at the output of the circuit, and F1 – against excess voltage in the network.
Description of the assembled device
Here's what I got. It looks so-so, but most importantly it works.
Transformer
Now let's talk about everything in order. A power transformer of the TS-160 or TS-180 brand can be obtained from old black-and-white Record TVs, but I didn’t find one and went to a radio store. Let's take a closer look.
Here are the petals where the leads of the transformer windings are soldered.
And here right on the transformer there is a sign indicating which petals have what voltage. This means that if we apply 220 Volts to petal No. 1 and 8, then on petals No. 3 and 6 we will get 33 Volts and a maximum load current of 0.33 Ampere, etc. But we are most interested in windings No. 13 and 14. On them we can get 6.55 Volts and a maximum current of 7.5 Amperes.
In order to charge the battery, we just need a large amount of current. But we don’t have enough voltage... The battery produces 12 Volts, but in order to charge it, the charging voltage must exceed the battery voltage. 6.55 Volts will not work here. The charger should give us 13-16 Volts. Therefore, we resort to a very cunning solution.
As you noticed, the transformer consists of two columns. Each column duplicates another column. The places where the winding leads come out are numbered. In order to increase the voltage, we simply need to connect two windings in series. To do this, we connect windings 13 and 13′ and remove the voltage from windings 14 and 14′. 6.55 + 6.55 = 13.1 Volts. This is the alternating voltage we will get.
Diode bridge
In order to rectify the alternating voltage, we use a diode bridge. We assemble a diode bridge using powerful diodes, because a decent amount of current will pass through them. To do this, we will need D242A diodes or some others designed for a current of 5 Amperes. A direct current of up to 10 Amps can flow through our power diodes, which is ideal for our homemade charger.
You can also separately buy a diode bridge as a ready-made module. The KVRS5010 diode bridge, which can be bought on Ali at this link or in the nearest radio store
A fully charged battery has low voltage. As it charges, the voltage across it becomes higher and higher. Consequently, the current in the circuit at the very beginning of charging will be very large, and then it will decrease. According to the Joule-Lenz Law, when the current is high, the diodes will heat up. Therefore, in order not to burn them, you need to take heat from them and dissipate it in the surrounding space. For this we need radiators. As a radiator, I disassembled a non-working computer power supply, cut a tin into strips and screwed a diode onto them.
Ammeter
Why is there an ammeter in the circuit? In order to control the charging process.
Don't forget to connect the ammeter in series with the load.
When the battery is completely discharged, it begins to consume (I think the word “eat” is inappropriate here) current. It consumes about 4-5 Amps. As it charges, it uses less and less current. Therefore, when the arrow of the device shows 1 Ampere, the battery can be considered charged. Everything is ingenious and simple :-).
Crocodiles
We remove two crocodiles for the battery terminals from our charger. When charging, do not confuse the polarity. It's better to mark them somehow or take different colors.
If everything is assembled correctly, then on the crocodiles we should see this kind of signal shape (in theory, the tops should be smoothed out, since it’s a sinusoid), but is that something you can present to our electricity provider))). Is this your first time seeing something like this? Let's run here!
Pulses of constant voltage charge the battery better than pure direct current. How to obtain pure direct current from alternating current is described in the article How to obtain direct current from alternating voltage.
Conclusion
Take the time to modify your device with fuses. Fuse ratings on the diagram. Do not check the voltage on the charger crocodiles for a spark, otherwise you will lose the fuse.
Attention! The circuit of this charger is designed to quickly charge your battery in critical cases when you urgently need to go somewhere in 2-3 hours. Do not use it for everyday use, as it charges at maximum current, which is not the best charging mode for your battery. When overcharging, the electrolyte will begin to “boil” and toxic fumes will begin to be released into the surrounding area.
Those who are interested in the theory of chargers (chargers), as well as the circuits of normal chargers, then be sure to download this book on this link. It can be called the bible on chargers.
Buy a car charger
Aliexpress has really good and smart chargers that are much lighter than ordinary transformer chargers. Their price averages from 1000 rubles.
